Summary
Highlights
The video introduces the combined manicure technique and begins by assessing the client's hand and cuticle condition. For thin cuticles and wet lateral folds, a combined manicure is ideal. The first step involves lifting the cuticle with a pusher, initially using the spatula side and then the rectangular side to clean the pterygium with short, progressive movements. This 'dry' method minimizes e-file work and reduces the risk of drilling through the nail plate.
For thin skin and close capillaries, a red 'flame' drill bit (0.21 or 0.23 mm diameter) is recommended because of its large working surface. The nail is visually divided in half, and the bit is placed diagonally from the middle, moving under the cuticle with short 2-3 mm progressive motions. Sinuses are processed carefully with fast, accurate, short moves, avoiding long strokes that can injure the skin or deepen the bit too much into the nail.
To process the side sinus, the client's finger is turned, and the lateral folds are pulled back. The drill bit moves over the skin without touching the nail plate to prevent thinning of side walls and cracks. After cleaning the side wall, the lateral fold is processed by moving the bit's surface sideways and perpendicularly down to remove dry skin. For very dry lateral folds, a blue drill bit (flame or cone) can be used.
After completing the left side, the e-file's rotation is switched to reverse to work on the right side at the same speed. The bit is placed parallel to the cuticle to open it further. It's acceptable to lightly touch the nail plate without pressure to remove pterygium. For right-handed nail techs finding the right sinus challenging, an upper grip on the finger can help. Maintaining 15,000-17,000 RPM prevents the bit from digging into the nail, and one should avoid over-filing white areas to prevent lateral onycholysis.
Working with a good light source is crucial to see the processed surface and avoid drilling through the nail. Before trimming, the cuticle should be well-separated with a clean pocket. Buffing the nail surface after lifting the cuticle helps remove any missed skin bits, preparing it for cutting.
The tutorial recommends using tweezer-scissors for a single, clean cut without hangnails. The lower blade is brought under the cuticle, and the scissors are held perpendicularly to the nail plate, not directly on the fold or plate. If the scissors get stuck, it indicates remaining skin attached to the nail plate. The cut is performed in 2-3 mm sections, turning the finger towards the cut. To finish, blade tips are lifted to allow the cuticle to detach naturally, avoiding tearing.
After cuticle work, nail shaping begins, starting with the shortest nail. For a square shape, the file is placed perpendicular to the nail tip for long moves, then under the nail to achieve a straight line from the growth point. Corners are softened, and symmetry is checked by comparing nail lengths. Filing leftovers are buffed, dust is removed, and the nail plate is dehydrated. Dehydrator and primer are applied to improve bonding, especially on split or previously peeled nails.
For strong nails, Uno Strong base is chosen. The nail plate is aligned by tilting the finger down to prevent material leakage. The nail plate is moisturized with three moves, and a small drop is used for alignment to add volume, prolong gel polish wear, and prevent breakage. The material is spread to the sides, and the highlight is fixed with a thin brush if needed. Nails are cured for 60 seconds.
The chosen main color is blue Lovely 52. Before applying, the cuticle is pushed back to allow painting underneath. The model's finger is tilted down to prevent leaks. The central part and sides are painted, then the brush is fanned and the cuticle pulled to paint underneath. Long moves smooth the coating, which is then cured. A denser second layer is applied without fanning the brush, as the color will flow on its own. The color is smoothed from cuticle to free edge, with the brush parallel to the nail plate, for even application.
A dotted design, sometimes called 'quail egg', is created using a special brush dipped in dark blue gel polish and dotted onto the surface. Drops can also be added with a thin brush. For a glitter design, a small drop of liquid base is mixed with glitter on a palette. This mixture is used to paint a triangle near the cuticle, ensuring it's not too thick for the top coat. The design is cured for 30 seconds.
A top coat without a tacky layer is applied, and a matte top coat is used for the nails with the design. If nail plate alignment was performed, the free edge can be filed for sharpness after the top coat is cured. The video concludes with a showcase of the finished result, encouraging viewers to try the technique.