Best Food in Leyte (with Erwan Heussaff)

Leyte, often overshadowed by other Visayan islands, holds immense historical significance, from Magellan's arrival to being the site of the largest naval battle in history. Despite this, its unique food culture, shaped by its location between the Visayan world and the Pacific, and the Waray people's traditions, remains largely undiscovered. The cuisine emphasizes direct flavors, vegetables, foraged ingredients, and coconut milk, reflecting resilience against colonization.

Chef Mark Sabayan, dedicated to documenting Leyte's food, guides a visit to the Palo Market. The market reveals an abundance of vegetables, many of which are unfamiliar to outsiders, highlighting the region's strong connection to local produce. Dishes like Lawot-lawot, a mixed vegetable stew with coconut milk, exemplify the healthy, slow-food approach. The tradition of Dinuminggo, offering food on Sundays, connects present-day practices to historical accounts from Magellan's chronicler, Antonio Pigafetta.

The culinary tour continues with Morón, a sticky rice and tablea chocolate cake, and a visit to an old carinderia. Here, dishes like Dagmay (taro leaves in coconut milk) and Hinatukan na Langka (jackfruit in coconut milk) are sampled. The unique kinilaw preparation, involving partial cooking of fresh fish with pasteurized coconut milk and aromatics, showcases the distinctiveness of Waray cuisine.

A visit to a family renowned for their heritage pako (fiddlehead fern) dish called Kirabu reveals a fascinating preparation technique. The dish features fresh, young pako, hand-grated coconut smoked into a ball, and native coconut vinegar. The meticulous process of manual coconut grating and grilling the coconut ball creates a unique texture and flavor, highlighting the region's resourceful and traditional cooking methods.

Espazio Arts, Food, and History offers a blend of local art, traditional cuisine, and a diverse collection of World War II memorabilia. The museum houses significant historical artifacts, including the first newspaper printed in a free Philippines. This establishment underscores Leyte's historical importance and the ongoing efforts to preserve its cultural heritage, emphasizing the need for locals and tourists alike to appreciate provincial history.

Joycie Alegre, a cultural heritage documentarian, discusses how food serves as a historical record, preserving cultural information that political histories might erase. She explains how the Waray language and culture are rich and distinct, particularly noting Eastern Samar's elaborated lexicon. The conversation delves into the concept of 'Waray flavors,' characterized by a sophisticated balance achieved through coconut milk and herbs like sangig (sweet basil), rather than overpowering tastes.

Ochó Seafood and Grill, a beloved Tacloban institution since 2002, is celebrated for its comforting and well-executed dishes. Regulars flock for favorites like baked scallops and Porbida (kangkong in coconut milk). The restaurant exemplifies the success of 'paluto' style eateries where fresh seafood is cooked to order, highlighting the region's access to amazing seafood from the Pacific.

The video explores the unique combination of lechon (roasted pig) and gaway (taro root), a pairing that highlights the Waray concept of balance in food. The lechon is simply seasoned, complementing the neutral starchiness of the gaway. This combination suggests an ancient dietary practice, hinting that taro might have been the original staple similar to rice, offering a nutritious and culturally significant meal.

The Rafael family, second-generation makers of Binagol, shares their story of continuing a tradition that has sustained their family for decades. Binagol, a rice cake using talyan (a type of taro), sticky rice, and a sweet, syrupy core, along with Morón, are highlighted as famous Leyte delicacies. The laborious six-hour cooking process of Binagol is essential, ensuring safety and developing its complex flavor profile, including a distinct smokiness.

The journey concludes in Mahagnao, an ecotourism park with rich volcanic soil, to discover a Lawot-lawot featuring 21 different vegetables. This dish challenges the notion that Filipino food isn't healthy, showcasing a harmonious blend of diverse vegetables simmered in coconut milk. The preparation emphasizes simplicity, where the natural flavors of each ingredient are allowed to shine, creating a mild and balanced symphony, illustrating the community's deep knowledge of foraging and sustainable living.