Summary
Highlights
Bradley Mayhew, a professional travel writer specializing in Asia, sets out to retrace the 750-year-old route of Marco Polo from Venice to Beijing. This ambitious journey covers 10,000 km across diverse landscapes and cultures, replicating the adventure Marco Polo undertook.
Bradley begins his journey in Venice during Carnival, a time that evokes the city's rich history as a trading hub connected to China via the Silk Road. He delves into Marco Polo's background, his family's trade in silk and spices, and the legendary book of his travels, which profoundly influenced explorers like Columbus.
Bradley visits the site of Marco Polo's childhood home in Venice. He learns about Marco Polo's departure at age 17 with his father, Niccolo, and uncle, Maffeo, on an epic journey that would last 27 years. A costume designer explains the typical attire of travelers during Marco Polo's time.
The journey continues to Acre, Israel, where the Polos first set foot on Asian soil. Acre was a significant Crusader stronghold and a bustling port. Bradley explores the ancient Crusader castle and discusses the historical context of Acre as the last bastion of Christendom in the Holy Land before its fall.
Bradley observes the complex reality of Acre, a city where different religions coexist, often with underlying tension. He reflects on how similar the present-day conflicts are to the Holy Wars of Marco Polo's era, highlighting the desire for control over sacred lands.
The Polos made a detour to Jerusalem to fulfill Kublai Khan's request for holy oil from the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Bradley visits this sacred site, explaining the significance of the holy oil as a symbol of Christian faith and a subject of interest for the Khan.
Bradley discusses the challenges of traveling through the Middle East today due to closed borders and political conflicts. He emphasizes the need for careful route planning, especially concerning visa stamps and security checks.
Bradley travels to Aleppo, Syria, one of the world's oldest cities and a legendary trading center. He meets Santiago, a local English literature student, who acts as his guide. They explore the imposing Citadel of Aleppo and reflect on its long history of various rulers.
Bradley and Santiago delve into the bustling covered bazaar of Aleppo, the longest in the world. They observe shops selling fabrics, including those from China, drawing parallels to the historical silk trade. Bradley learns about traditional Aleppo soap and attempts to participate in silk weaving, highlighting the enduring significance of silk to the region.
Bradley leaves Syria for Turkey, meeting photographer Yousef Siniy. They travel to Yalikov, formerly Lias, an important port where Marco Polo landed after Jerusalem. They discuss the challenges of tracing Marco Polo's exact route due to changing place names and the complex network of the Silk Road.
Bradley and Yousef visit the Great Mosque of Divrigi, an impressive 13th-century mosque known for its intricate stone carvings and blend of Turkish, Islamic, Persian, and Mesopotamian architectural styles. They speculate that Marco Polo likely passed through this region, given its past importance as a trade route.
On a train to Erzingan (Marco Polo's Ainga), Bradley meets Adam, who invites them to witness a Cherit game—a traditional horseback game and a form of ritualized warfare. Bradley attempts to ride a horse during the game, observing its cultural significance.
In Erzurum, described by Marco Polo as cold but noble, Bradley investigates the local jewel trade, particularly focusing on 'black stone' or Oltu tach. He learns about its history within the Polo family's trade interests and how it's mined.
Bradley journeys to a remote village to explore an Oltu tach mine. He experiences the arduous conditions of mining the stone by hand, crawling through narrow tunnels underground. He learns about the stone's properties and how it's processed.
Before Yousef returns home, they visit Ani, the deserted capital of Greater Armenia, once a significant Silk Road trading hub. Bradley reflects on the city's rise and fall, its conversion between mosque and church, and how natural disasters and the changing Silk Road routes contributed to its demise.
Bradley and Yousef part ways near Mount Ararat, marking the end of the first leg of the journey through Turkey. Bradley prepares for the next phase of his adventure into Iran, reflecting on the insights gained from retracing Marco Polo's path.