Summary
Highlights
The fathers say quick goodbyes to their sons, suppressing their own sadness to avoid upsetting the children further, and depart immediately due to the unstable river conditions. The next day, the school year begins with Buddhist prayers. Dokar attends math class, and Motuk receives new books, a luxury his village school couldn't offer. Foster mothers at the boarding school provide emotional support, helping the children adjust to life away from home.
In the remote Zanskar region of the Indian Himalayas, children face an arduous and dangerous journey to reach school. Their path involves a several-day trek across the frozen Zanskar River, known as the Chadar, a route that is both long and highly hazardous due to the unpredictable ice conditions and treacherous terrain.
Ten-year-old Motuk is one of the children who undertakes this perilous journey. He attends a boarding school in Leh, a significant town in Ladakh, having won a scholarship two years prior. His family, though saddened by his long absences, supports his pursuit of a better education, understanding its importance for his future.
Motuk's father, Latak, meticulously prepares for the expedition, packing essentials like provisions and sleeping bags. The heavy load is transported on a sleigh. The Chadar is unpredictable, with rising water levels and obstacles, meaning the journey can take anywhere from four days to over two weeks. Motuk dreams of becoming a pilot, a dream that fuels his determination despite the 100-kilometer trek over melting ice.
Twelve-year-old Dokar from a neighboring village also embarks on this dangerous route. She aspires to become a doctor, a dream her mother, Youngdoy, wholeheartedly supports. Youngdoy believes that education is essential for her children to become valuable members of society, despite the sacrifice of separation.
Motuk, his father, Dokar, and two other children (Teshma and Jordan, accompanied by Jordan's father Thinly) form a group for safety. The adults use hiking sticks to test the ice and snow, emphasizing the constant vigilance required. The first day starts with good progress on thick ice, but temperatures are frigid (-10 degrees Celsius, dropping to -30 degrees at night).
As the sun sets, temperatures plummet, forcing the group to seek shelter in a half-open cave. They build a fire to warm themselves and the ground, as sleeping in minimal clothing in old army sleeping bags is their only defense against the extreme cold. Motuk feels tired, and his father knows good sleep is crucial for the days ahead.
Day two brings more challenging terrain as the river narrows and flows faster, leading to thinner ice. They encounter the first truly difficult sections where the ice is narrow and thin, requiring careful assessment by Latak. The risk of falling into the fast, freezing water is ever-present, a mistake that could be fatal. They must often leave the ice and climb over steep rocks.
The fathers, Latak and Thinly, prioritize the children's safety. When the ice becomes impassable, they must scale the rocks, carrying heavy loads. Latak recalls a boy who died three years ago, breaking through the ice, underscoring the constant fear. They risk perilous climbs, carrying their luggage first, then guiding the children through the dangerous sections. Motuk, though scared, finds moments of fun during the climbs.
On day three, fresh snowfall brings rising temperatures and water levels, making the river even more treacherous. They learn from an approaching group that the water is knee-deep in parts, threatening to make the passage impassable. Latak and Thinly urge the group forward, as there's no alternative route through the steep rocks. The children's feet turn ice-cold, and Jordan, exhausted, has to be carried.
Despite the hardships, the children make it to day four, with their destination in sight. Only a few tricky passages remain, but the rising temperatures continue to melt the ice, creating more peril. They face another difficult climb over rocks just kilometers from the main road, physically and emotionally draining for the children, especially Jordan who struggles to walk.
After 100 kilometers, they reach the road and a shared taxi takes them to Leh. Motuk and Jordan arrive at the Jamyang School, founded by the Dalai Lama, while the girls go to a different school. Motuk settles into his dormitory, sharing a room with seven others. He feels sad leaving his father but happy to reunite with friends.