Summary
Highlights
Sweet Georgia Brown was another bleaching cream advertised in Black publications, promising a 'lighter, brighter, lovelier' complexion. These creams, often containing hydroquinone and mercury, capitalized on colorism, reinforcing harmful beauty standards while causing skin damage.
The video introduces the prevalence of harsh beauty treatments in 1960s Black America, which included products that could peel skin, burn hair, and release toxic fumes, yet were considered normal parts of daily grooming.
The hot comb, heated on a gas stove and tested with a paper bag, was a common tool for straightening hair. The process was painful, often causing burns if flinched, and involved applying Vaseline as a protective barrier.
Vaseline was an omnipresent moisturizer, used for everything from dry skin to protecting the hairline during hot combing. However, it was a crude oil byproduct, and years of skin contact could expose users to hydrocarbons linked to cancer, though this was unknown at the time.
Johnson & Johnson baby powder was widely used by Black mothers, but internal documents later revealed the company knew its talc was mined alongside asbestos. Studies linked genital talc use to increased ovarian cancer risk, leading to billion-dollar lawsuits and its discontinuation.
Petroleum-based pomades like Dixie Peach were essential for men to achieve popular wave hairstyles, despite staining pillowcases and headrests. These products contained petroleum jelly and mineral oil, reflecting a culture of specific hair grooming for Black men.
Permanent hair dyes in the 1960s contained coal tar and para-phenylenediamine (PPD), a chemical known to cause severe allergic reactions, swelling, and hair breakage. PPD, despite blinding women in an earlier product (Lash Lure), remained legal for scalp use.
Lye relaxers, like Ultra Sheen, used sodium hydroxide—the same chemical found in paint strippers—to straighten hair. The process caused intense burning, scarring, and skin damage. Home kits brought these dangers closer, and only after thousands of complaints did the FTC mandate warning labels.
Bleaching creams like Natanola, advertised in prominent Black magazines, contained ammoniated mercury, a toxic metal that caused skin peeling, cracking, and a gray discoloration. Though initially containing high levels, mercury in cosmetics was banned by the FDA in 1973.
Lipsticks, a common and affordable luxury, frequently contained lead. Due to a legal loophole, cosmetics companies were not required to prove safety, meaning women unknowingly ingested lead with every application, a substance with no safe exposure level.
Relaxers were also marketed to young girls as 'Kitty Perms,' despite using chemical bases similar to adult relaxers. These treatments often led to scalp burns, irritation, and permanent hair loss. Later studies linked early relaxer use to uterine fibroids and cancer.
Hydroquinone replaced mercury in skin-lightening creams, aiming to fade dark spots. However, overuse led to ochronosis, a condition where skin turns a permanent bluish-gray. These creams exploited colorism by promising a 'better life' through lighter skin, but caused lasting damage.
Nail salons used formaldehyde in nail hardeners, exposing women to harsh fumes that caused headaches, burning eyes, and brittle nails. Formaldehyde is a known carcinogen, yet its risks were not communicated to consumers getting manicures.
Home perm kits used thioglycolate to chemically alter hair structure, creating strong odors and causing skin burns if the solution dripped. Misapplication could lead to hair melting or breaking off, highlighting the dangers of DIY chemical treatments.
Phisohex, a green liquid soap, contained hexachlorophene, a potent germ killer used in hospitals and later purchased by Black mothers for home use. Despite being marketed as safe, it was absorbed through newborn skin, damaging their nervous systems, leading to deaths and product recalls.
Eyeliner pencils in the 1960s used carbon black, a soot pigment also found in car tires. Without regulation for cosmetic colorants, companies used cheap, dark pigments, exposing women to polyaromatic hydrocarbons linked to cancer through eye and mouth contact.
Vicks VapoRub, with its strong camphor, eucalyptus, and menthol scent, was a staple for colds. Camphor, however, is toxic if swallowed, causing seizures, liver damage, and respiratory failure, yet children were exposed to it through direct application and steam inhalation.
The disaster of Lash Lure eyelash tint in 1933, which caused blindness and death due to para-phenylenediamine (PPD), led to the 1938 Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act. Yet, PPD remained legal in hair dyes, continuing to cause severe reactions, swelling, and contact dermatitis for Black women.
Mercurochrome, a bright red antiseptic, was commonly dabbed on cuts and scrapes. Its active ingredient, merbromin, contained mercury. Despite its widespread use, the FDA pulled its 'safe' status in 1998 due to concerns about mercury absorption through broken skin, the very wounds it was meant to treat.
Electric pressing combs in the 1970s offered a flameless alternative to hot combs but lacked thermostats, reaching unregulated temperatures over 400 degrees. These tools caused burns if not handled carefully, with no safety standards or recall systems in place for products marketed to Black women.
A traditional remedy of sulfur powder mixed with hog lard was used to treat scalp issues and promote hair growth. This homemade paste, applied directly to the scalp, was effective but had a strong odor and could cause burning, especially on irritated skin.
Before commercial products, grandmothers often blended their own hair oils using castor oil, coconut oil, and other ingredients. These gentle treatments, focused on nourishing the scalp, were administered with care and love, highlighting a more nurturing approach to beauty.
The kitchen served as the central hub for beauty rituals in Black households. It was a space where mothers and aunts would style hair, share wisdom, and create a sense of community, with every product and process becoming a part of this shared experience, despite the inherent dangers of many of the treatments.
Pressing oils, such as Bergamot, Olive Oil, and Sulfur-8, were applied before hot combing. The heat created thick, smoke-filled air that lingered and was inhaled, as windows remained closed to maintain hair straightness. Bergamot oil also contained chemicals that caused severe burns in sunlight.
Boric acid powder was a common household remedy for everything from eye compresses to diaper rash. However, it was toxic if swallowed and could cause kidney damage and seizures in children, leading to over 170 infant deaths from accidental poisoning before adequate warnings were implemented.