Summary
Highlights
The video opens with the Qoyllur Rit'i pilgrimage in the Peruvian Andes, a spiritual journey combining Catholic saints and Andean mountain spirits. Jim, a 30-year-old from Cusco, participates for the first time, hoping to join the respected Pabitos brotherhood. The pilgrimage involves arduous climbs to over 4,700 meters, requiring endurance and faith from participants, who eventually reach the sacred rock at the shrine of Qoyllur Rit'i.
The documentary then shifts to La Rinconada, the highest permanent settlement on Earth at over 5,300 meters above sea level. This town's life revolves around gold mining. Arnaldo, a miner, and his family live in harsh conditions. The mining work is dangerous, informal, and unregulated, with miners paid through the 'cachureo' system, where they keep what they find one day a week. The use of dynamite and mercury is common, posing significant health risks to the miners and environmental threats to the region.
Women in La Rinconada are traditionally barred from entering mines but work above ground in low-paying jobs or as 'pallqueras,' searching for discarded gold ore. Jessica, a single mother, exemplifies this struggle. Arnaldo processes his gold using mercury, a highly toxic metal, demonstrating the lack of safety measures. The extracted gold is sold for meager earnings, barely covering living expenses in the expensive high-altitude town.
Beyond gold, the Andes are rich in alpaca and vicuña wool. Arequipa is a hub for alpaca fiber. The highly prized vicuña wool, known for its extreme softness and warmth, is featured. Vicuñas are wild animals, and their wool is harvested through a traditional event called a 'chacu,' involving community round-ups and careful shearing. Strict laws protect vicuñas, and their wool is meticulously documented and sorted, fetching high prices from luxury fashion houses worldwide.
La Rinconada, despite its gold wealth, is plagued by crime and violence due to a limited state presence. Warning signs and mannequins serve as deterrents. Police, led by Major Aranda, patrol the area, engaging in stop-and-search operations. The police uncover illegal sales of explosives, seizing significant quantities of dynamite and ammonium nitrate, highlighting the dangerous environment and the challenges of maintaining order in the town.
Peru's Andes, including Machu Picchu and Rainbow Mountain, attract tourists, but high altitudes pose health challenges. Cusco, at 3,500m, sees many tourists suffering from altitude sickness, requiring treatment at specialized clinics. In contrast, residents of La Rinconada are adapted to extreme altitudes, even playing soccer at 5,300m. French researchers study these adaptations, noting local residents' increased red blood cell count and larger hearts, adaptations to low oxygen, but also potential health risks from these changes.
The documentary also addresses the environmental impact of mining in La Rinconada, focusing on mercury pollution. Researchers find elevated mercury levels in water and urine samples of miners. The town's drinking water, sourced directly from glaciers, becomes contaminated as it flows through mining areas. This pollution affects Lake Titicaca, where thousands of tons of mercury accumulate annually. Residents experience various health issues, including constant headaches and developmental problems in children, with some families considering legal action against authorities.