Summary
Highlights
Ricardo Miranda de Sousa, Inés Castañeda, Filippo Turrini, and Marina Castañeda introduce themselves as key figures at Roots, an interdisciplinary team of six founders. Five of them previously worked at Central in Lima, Peru, where their shared dreams of opening their own project, focused on gastronomy beyond the traditional restaurant setting, led to the creation of Roots. They were inspired by Central's vision of exploring beyond the kitchen, conducting research, meeting communities, and bringing these experiences into their culinary creations. The team decided to open Roots in Siargao, Philippines, due to its rich biodiversity, strong community, and the potential to implement their unique concept with a focus on environmental, economic, and social impact.
From the beginning, Roots prioritized understanding Siargao's local landscape and product availability. They embarked on journeys to local markets and even traveled to Davao and Cagayan de Oro to trace the origins of fresh produce. This led them to collaborate with local farms like Lokal Lab and Siargao Organics, emphasizing the use of local products for both culinary quality and environmental sustainability. They aim to use 90% Filipino ingredients, incorporating traditional recipes from their backgrounds with the incredible biodiversity of the Philippines. Analyn, one of the founders of Lokal Lab, became their guide, sharing her immense knowledge of local flora and fauna, teaching them about edible plants and their traditional uses, which eventually inspired her to create a foraging class.
The Roots team actively seeks out and integrates unique local ingredients, such as kundol (winter melon) and pepinitos (creeping cucumbers). While many locals do not typically consume kundol, the chefs found creative ways to incorporate it into dishes like their carpaccio, combining it with swordfish and local herbs like gotu kola. Pepinitos, initially not commercialized, have started to be sold more widely to other restaurants and locals after Roots began using them. They also discovered the nipa palm, which is abundant in Siargao, especially in San Isidro. Beyond its traditional uses for roofing and producing vinegar or wine, Roots uses the nipa flower and its fruit in their carpaccio, pickling the 'lychee-like' pods in nipa vinegar, showcasing a familiar ingredient in a new culinary light. This approach highlights the importance and versatility of locally abundant products.
Roots embraces flexibility and creativity to navigate the challenges of operating a restaurant in Siargao, where weather and soil conditions can be harsh for farmers. They leverage forage ingredients, which are available year-round, allowing them to maintain a short, adaptable menu that changes frequently based on market availability. Beyond culinary endeavors, Roots actively seeks out community partnerships. They connected with SIKAT, an organization supporting community-based coastal resource management and women's livelihood initiatives, particularly in seaweed farming. Roots purchases seaweed from women farmers in Barangay Montserrat, ensuring a direct connection between the community and the market, thereby supporting local livelihoods and celebrating the diverse resources of Siargao.
The restaurant's design elements reinforce its storytelling ethos. An artistic wall installation showcases ingredients used in the menu, emphasizing the protagonist role of the ingredients themselves, with metaphorical 'hands' representing the farmers, fishermen, and collaborators behind each dish. Their unique tables, made from recycled plastic and wood in collaboration with local carpenters, symbolize their commitment to sustainability. Lamps crafted by indigenous women from Cagayan de Oro using kraft paper and atsuete further highlight their dedication to showcasing Filipino craftsmanship and culture. During dinner service, the team aims to offer guests more than just a meal; they strive to provide an experience that celebrates Filipino ingredients, culture, and the hard work of local communities. They express pride when Filipino diners discover new uses or origins of local products, underscoring their mission to educate and appreciate the richness of the Philippines.