Summary
Highlights
The 87th installment of the intramural learning sessions celebrates Filipino Food Month by exploring the foodscape of colonial Manila. The session, titled 'Feeding Manila: Colonial Influences and Filipino Food,' features guest speaker Felice Prudente Santa Maria. The presentation will cover food challenges and culinary adaptations during Spain's colonial era (1571-1945), emphasizing that Filipinos always preferred their food choices. Manila's cuisine, as a capital city cuisine, has shaped the country's food identity, incorporating international and archipelago-wide influences to create unique Filipino dishes. This dynamic cuisine reflects continued colonial influences, with over 1400 vignettes available on Felice P Santa Maria's Instagram and website for further exploration.
Food security was a major hurdle for colonial Manila. Early strategies included importing essentials like wheat, wine, and various food items from Spain, China, and Japan. China became a primary foreign food supplier, providing ingredients and even salt production techniques. Annual tributes were collected in food, especially rice, from surrounding provinces, placing a strain on the native population. Spaniards also introduced cattle for beef and attempted to grow wheat. New World ingredients from Mexico (like corn, tomatoes, cacao) and other global foods (coffee, mangoes, different fruits, new farming techniques) were introduced. The establishment of a central market and segregated Chinese enclaves (Parian) influenced food availability and cultural mixing. Colonial adaptation led to the creation of a 'Phil-Hispanic' cuisine, substituting local ingredients for unavailable temperate ones, and incorporating native cooking techniques into Spanish dishes.
The first Q&A session addresses the reinvention of Filipino food and cultural appropriation, specifically regarding the use of pork in a traditionally non-pork dish like 'pastil.' Felice Santa Maria emphasizes the importance of multicultural respect and understanding the origins of dishes, especially concerning religious dietary laws. She highlights that the limited Spanish presence in the Philippines allowed local cuisines to dominate and adapt foreign influences 'our way.' The discussion also covers the impact of Chinese mestizos, who were raised in Filipino customs, further preserving local culinary identity despite intermingling.
The discussion continues with the origins of 'kilaw,' contrasting it with Spanish 'ceviche.' Kilaw is argued to be a pre-colonial Filipino dish, with archaeological evidence suggesting its existence as far back as the 13th century. The speaker clarifies that kilaw involves briefly dipping very fresh ingredients in acid, similar to sashimi, rather than prolonged marination. The question of a 'purely indigenous' Filipino food is addressed, with the conclusion that while many ingredients are uniquely ours, the concept of eating raw fish, for example, is part of broader human culinary development. The session emphasizes appreciating the unique combination of indigenous ingredients and preparation methods that define Filipino cuisine.
Part two details specific foreign influences on Manila cuisine. Spanish influences include cooking techniques like 'guisado' (frying as a first step), pre-cooking marinades (adobo), force meats, cooked sauces, oven baking, and low-fire cooking. Chinese influences brought stir-frying, steaming, slow cooking methods, and ham-making. American influences introduced canned goods, widespread bakeries, commercial and homemade ice creams, increased interest in conserves, cocktails, and recipes disseminated through various media. A detailed 1838-1846 colonial Manila diet is presented, showcasing a blend of Spanish and native foods. The typical native Filipino diet, consisting of rice, fish, vegetables, and various dips, is also described.
The segment traces the historical evolution of specific Filipino dishes. Sinigang, documented in 17th-century Tagalog vocabularies, is described as fish cooked in vinegar, water, and salt, with early tomatoes from Mexico becoming an ingredient. Tinola, appearing in 17th-century Visayan vocabularies, exemplifies a pre-colonial dish that remained popular. Philippine adobo is highlighted as unique, transforming the Spanish marinade concept into a cooked dish that could be preserved for travel. The influence of Mexican 'tamal' is discussed in relation to native 'suman,' emphasizing the introduction of New World flora and fauna over specific Mexican dishes. The prominence of 'pancit' as affordable, versatile street food, and the adoption of wheat bread ('tinapay') during colonial times, are also detailed. The introduction of ice and preserved fruits, particularly by Maria Orosa, and the widespread use of canned goods during the American era, are also explored.
Wedding menus from 1907-1919 illustrate the merging of French, American, and Spanish culinary influences in Manila. The section concludes by emphasizing that Manila's cuisine is a product of diverse cooks and influences, resulting in a rich food culture encompassing street food, restaurant fare, and fine dining. The speaker provides suggested readings for further exploration, including the Boxer Codex and works by Jean Mallat and Maria Orosa. The discussion transitions to philosophical questions about protecting and promoting Filipino food identity in the face of globalization.
The Q&A session addresses how to legally protect the geographical context of Filipino food, similar to Europe's appellation d'origine contrôlée. The speaker emphasizes extensive research and a shift in mindset to value regional food identities within the Philippines. She uses the example of Kentucky Fried Chicken and Champagne to illustrate brand protection and quality control. The discussion then tackles the perception that Filipino food lacks uniqueness due to foreign influences. The speaker argues that all global cuisines are blends, and Filipino cuisine's innovation from diverse ingredients and technologies is a source of pride. She highlights the joy and communal aspect of sharing Filipino food as a core element of its identity.
The conversation shifts to balancing fast food consumption among younger generations with an appreciation for genuine Filipino foods. The speaker notes that many fast foods are, in fact, Filipino foods, evolving from the tradition of convenient street food (like pancit). She encourages prioritizing healthier choices from the diverse range of Filipino cuisine and adapting traditional recipes to modern equipment (like air fryers and pressure cookers). A question about the absence of distinct terms for 'hot' versus 'spicy' in Filipino language prompts a discussion on the Filipino palate. The speaker explains that traditional Filipino food initially focused on a harmonious blend of flavors and a 'pricking' sensation rather than overwhelming heat. The uniqueness lies in the 'do-it-yourself' aspect of adding flavors at the table, along with an emphasis on a 'symphony of textures,' which is a key, often overlooked, element of Filipino cuisine.
The final questions address promoting local ingredients and resources for research on Philippine cookbooks. The speaker offers to share her bibliography of published cookbooks from 1915-1949, emphasizing the significance of home economics and adult education textbooks from the American period in defining Filipino cooking. She also notes the importance of non-traditional sources like food demonstrators and women's magazines. The concept of 'gastro-nationalism' is discussed, with historical examples like Rizal's meal in Europe and the Malolos Congress dinner showcasing Filipino food as a symbol of national identity and equality. Maria Orosa's advocacy for consuming local fruits and vegetables is highlighted as an early form of 'eat local' movement, emphasizing food as a protector of identity and landscape. The session concludes with a call to appreciate and sustain Filipino food culture through continued enjoyment and exploration.