Summary
Highlights
Emily explores her neighborhood in Tunisia during Ramadan, highlighting which establishments are open and closed during the day. Convenience stores and grocery stores remain open with reduced hours, while cafes are closed during the day but open later at night. Most people also finish work early, cutting out the typical two-hour lunch break.
Emily discusses her suhoor meal, a pre-sunrise sorghum porridge called 'dâa', which is known for being hearty and energy-packed to sustain fasters throughout the day. She notes feeling hungry as the effects wear off but plans to stay busy to distract herself until iftar.
Emily is picked up by her friend Razi to go to his house for iftar. She reflects on her first day of fasting, noting that it wasn't as difficult as she expected, though thirst remains a persistent challenge. They visit Razi's family and meet his puppies, Clyde and Simma, observing his dad picking lemons for dinner. Razi and his friends attempt a trip to a nearby mountain to pass the time before iftar but turn back due to time constraints.
Back at Razi's house, Emily observes the preparations for iftar. The family gathers around the TV for the call to prayer, signaling the end of the fast. They enjoy a meal that includes stuffed artichokes, potatoes, and various salads, including 'blanket' (a salad baguette). The meal, while not strictly traditional, is diverse and filling. Emily samples baked 'brick' and 'fonduk', a dish made of stuffed artichoke hearts and potatoes with meat.
After dinner, Emily enjoys coffee and traditional Tunisian sweets: 'kakwarka' (paper cake) and 'makrouth be blewa' (semolina dough filled with nuts). She expresses her appreciation for the coffee after a day of fasting. The family then gathers to watch special Ramadan drama shows and commercials on TV, a common evening activity during the holy month.
Emily drives to a cafe with Razi and his friends in Tunisia, highlighting her ability to drive a stick shift in the country. They play a card game called 'ain'. During the game, the cafe manager recognizes Emily and offers a free 'ka', a drink with orange blossom water, which she tries for the first time outside of other regions.