Summary
Highlights
The Zadrima region in Albania, a fertile valley in the heart of Mediterranean Europe, is home to a resilient people. Aghe, a widowed woman living alone in her traditional mountain home, embodies this spirit. Despite her children living abroad, she maintains her ancestral culinary traditions, preferring her old wood-fired stove to a modern electric kitchen. She passionately prepares 'Burek' using local ingredients, reflecting her deeply rooted identity in Zadrima.
Zadrima is a historical region in Albania defined by a strong sense of identity and rich cultural heritage. After decades of dictatorial rule that suppressed traditions and religion, and a period of chaos following the regime's collapse, many fled abroad. However, an unwavering loyalty to their origins has persisted. Some are now returning to build a modern country, transforming symbols of past struggles, like Cold War bunkers, into functional elements for community life.
Altin, a chef whose family fled to Italy, has returned to Zadrima to open a Slow Food restaurant in a former political prison. He champions local, seasonal ingredients and traditional cooking methods, creating a network of local suppliers like Tonin, a goat herder. This initiative not only provides exceptional produce but also supports local farmers and shepherds, ensuring fair prices and sustainable practices.
Zadrima's unspoiled valley is rich in biodiversity, offering a variety of medicinal plants. Duash and his wife, Regina, collect hypericum, among other herbs, a traditional practice also used to earn income. Albania boasts 3,500 different plant species, 10% of which are medicinal or aromatic. Traditional herbal medicine, deeply embedded in local culture for centuries, continues to be cherished and practiced by families for their health and well-being.
In the village of Aimel, Jeff Buckry has pioneered an organic olive grove, reviving a tradition interrupted during communism. Supported by EU and Albanian government subsidies, he grows two olive varieties for oil and table consumption. The region also boasts ancient vineyards, cultivating the 'Calmet' grape since the 14th century, demonstrating a rich agricultural heritage that is now being revitalized with scientific collaboration to preserve local varieties.
Kol Salaku, a farmer with a deep understanding of agriculture, is a key figure in Zadrima's agricultural revival. He employs an ancestral cultivation technique of intercropping corn and beans, a symbiotic relationship where corn provides shade and moisture for beans, and beans enrich the soil with nitrogen. Kol also cultivates and preserves a unique white corn variety, 'Heker' or 'August,' which was vital during the autocratic regime and is now used for traditional bread and polenta.
Albanian hospitality, guided by the ancient Kanun code, is sacred. Aghe exemplifies this by graciously preparing traditional Turkish-style coffee, a vital ritual for fostering friendship and making important decisions. The tradition of homemade 'pekmes' (mulberry syrup) and 'Burek' (savory pastry) are central to the culture. These timeless culinary practices and the profound sense of welcome offered to guests define the spirit of interconnectedness in Zadrima.
Mulberry trees are abundant in Zadrima, historically providing food for silkworms and berries for 'rakì' (grappa) and 'pekmes.' This tradition, though challenged by market changes, has seen a resurgence with efforts to preserve the genetic purity of Albanian silkworms and the art of traditional weaving. The mulberry symbolizes a rich natural and cultural heritage, offering both sustenance and a connection to the past.
A communal meal under a mulberry tree, featuring dishes like 'dromsa' (bean soup) and 'Burek,' highlights the strong bonds within the Zadrima community. Altin, along with old friends like Pale and Lisa, shares this 'Albanian brunch,' symbolizing peace, friendship, and the joy of shared experiences. This gathering reinforces the concept of 'Konde,' an Albanian term signifying a deep, ancestral connection beyond mere territory, reflecting the profound spirit of unity and hospitality.