Summary
Highlights
Defining Bond Builders00:00:30
Bond builders are a relatively new industry category that gained popularity in 2014. While the name suggests they rebuild disulfide bonds, this is technically a misnomer, as they primarily interact with other types of bonds or provide structural support rather than chemically reconnecting severed disulfide bonds.
Understanding Hair Bonds00:01:28
Hair contains three types of bonds: disulfide, electrostatic (salt), and hydrogen. While salt and hydrogen bonds are temporary and reform when hair dries, disulfide bonds are permanent once broken by chemicals like lighteners. Bond builders do not magically restore these broken disulfide bonds but can build alternative bridges to strengthen the hair fiber.
The Role of Developer and Safety00:05:39
Stylists often increase developer strength when using bond builders because the additives compete for space within the hair fiber, slowing down the lightening process. Increasing the developer volume creates a higher risk of damage, as hydrogen peroxide is non-selective and will break down proteins in the hair.
Best Practices for Professionals00:08:09
Bond builders should not be viewed as a safety net that allows for more aggressive chemical processing. Stylists should continue to prioritize hair integrity by using the lowest effective developer volume and relying on professional expertise rather than solely depending on additives to prevent damage.