Summary
Highlights
Mauritania is plagued by the Harmattan, a sand-filled desert wind that can quickly plunge the country into chaos, covering roads with 15-meter-high sand dunes. Drivers often get stuck, requiring community assistance and tire deflation to navigate the ever-shifting sands, highlighting the constant struggle against the desert's powerful forces.
Supplying remote villages in Mauritania is a monumental task. Traditional camel caravans have been replaced by aging trucks, which can carry immense loads. Drivers like Sid Ahmed navigate treacherous desert routes, relying on makeshift tools and mint tea for energy. Despite the risks and extended travel times, these deliveries are crucial for survival in isolated communities.
The Tagant desert presents extreme conditions, with temperatures reaching 40 degrees Celsius. Vehicles like Sid Ahmed's 30-year-old 'peasant truck' are valued for their simple mechanics and ease of repair. Drivers must deflate tires to traverse sand, leading to frequent replacements. Deliveries to remote farmers, who often lack basic infrastructure like roads and water, rely entirely on these intrepid transporters.
At the port of Nouakchott, a dangerous routine unfolds as hundreds of men storm fishing boats to transport crates of fish. Paid by volume, they risk their lives amidst rough waves, with many drowning or being crushed. The fish are then loaded onto ancient 404 pickup trucks, maintained with ingenious, albeit unconventional, methods like using tea bags to plug leaks.
To ensure affordable fish for desert communities, the Mauritanian government subsidizes its transport. Taxi drivers like Massoud embark on long, perilous journeys across 300 kilometers of desert. These trips are fraught with mechanical issues, like flat tires due to extreme heat, forcing drivers and passengers to endure long delays and overnight stays in the harsh desert environment.
The iron ore train, one of the world's longest, is a vital but dangerous mode of transport for Mauritania's poorest. Travelers ride on the wagons, enduring extreme temperatures, sand, and dust for over 700 kilometers. Train drivers maintain a tradition of distributing bread to nomads along the route. Accidents with wandering camels are common, resulting in significant compensation costs for the mining company.
Mamine, a 56-year-old transporter, relies on the iron ore train to move goods after his grocery store went bankrupt. He endures extreme cold, heat, and constant vigilance against theft, earning a meager €15 per trip. The journey is frequently disrupted by mechanical failures and track blockages, such as wagons detaching, causing significant delays and highlighting the arduous nature of his work.
After a grueling three-day journey, Sid Ahmed faces the most challenging part: 40 kilometers of deep sand and rocky terrain before reaching Tichitt. The heavy truck struggles, requiring repeated use of sand sheets to maintain traction. Despite intense heat and engine overheating, Sid Ahmed prioritizes safety, stopping for lunch to prevent breakdowns and reflecting on past instances of being stranded.
Massoud's struggle to deliver perishable fish is highlighted as his journey is delayed by a flat tire, forcing an overnight desert stop. Upon arrival in Akjoujt, the fish are defrosted, and the village's battery-operated refrigerator is non-functional due to empty batteries. This forces immediate consumption of the fish, underscoring the severe challenges of food preservation and rural life in the desert.
Global warming poses an existential threat to Mauritanian villages like Akjoujt, as the Sahara expands, engulfing homes and exacerbating water scarcity. Entire populations are fleeing to larger cities, leaving behind dwindling communities. Villages like Inal have become ghost towns. Remaining inhabitants depend on state-provided water, transported by a moving water system that serves 20 villages, facing constant challenges of leaks and limited supply.
Mamine, exhausted from 17 hours on the iron ore train, continues his grueling work, reflecting on his bankruptcy and lack of alternatives. The train remains a vital lifeline for many, enabling business, family connections, and work. New passengers, like Mustafa, travel with their donkeys, hoping for work at the port. Despite delays from persistent train malfunctions, they persevere, highlighting the resilience of Mauritanians seeking livelihoods.
After four days, Sid Ahmed finally reaches Tichitt, a UNESCO World Heritage Site with a rich history as a camel caravan hub. Though its splendor remains, the city's economy collapsed with the decline of caravans. Inhabitants now subsist by mining "amasal," an earth salt used for camels. Aisha, a single mother, exemplifies the hardship, working long hours for meager wages to feed her children, asserting that this arduous labor is preferable to other desperate measures.
Mauritania, while moving past the threat of terrorism, now confronts the escalating crisis of global warming. Increasing droughts and advancing sands are engulfing roads and villages. The video concludes with a stark warning: if global temperatures continue to rise, the desert will soon be devoid of its resilient inhabitants, making the daily struggles of its people even more poignant.