Summary
Highlights
Captain Ame navigates a 90-meter long, 40-meter wide wooden raft carrying 228 tree trunks worth over €350,000. This behemoth is practically uncontrollable, yet it's the simplest way to transport lumber due to the appalling state of Congolese roads. The journey to the capital is fraught with tension for helmsman Vandu and the passengers, who risk falling between logs.
The Democratic Republic of Congo is Africa's second-biggest country, making inter-city travel an ordeal. Thousands squeeze onto unsafe boats, leading to hundreds of fatalities yearly. Road travel is equally challenging, with trucks battling rain-damaged roads, demanding constant vigilance from crews. Congolese people on both land and water exhibit an incredible survival instinct.
The 100-meter raft descends the Congo River towards Kinshasa. The first 700 kilometers to Mbandaka were uneventful, but the remaining 700 kilometers promise more difficulty. The river water is heavily polluted, and bathing in it is risky. Accidents are frequent on board, with metal protrusions causing injuries, often to feet. Ingenious solutions are found for emergencies, like using high-alcohol liquid for wound disinfection.
Congolese people have limited transport options on the river, including leaky 'whalers' and massive 'floating shanty towns' packed with up to 2000 people without basic amenities. Vandu attributes the lack of infrastructure not entirely to the state, but also to widespread corruption and the lingering effects of armed conflicts and guerrilla groups hindering the economy.
With 40% unemployment, many Congolese survive by selling whatever they can. Gloria, a grandmother, sells cassava flour (Fufu) to pay debts while traveling with her granddaughter. Passengers pay around €8 each, but planks for comfort are limited. New traders, like Jean-Paul with his goods, often cause friction due to limited space.
A sudden storm on the river threatens to tear the raft apart, forcing it to pull over to the bank. Passengers like Gloria and Jean-Paul are ill-equipped to handle the weather. Meanwhile, water flows into the boats through air vents, adding to the distress. The captain is disheartened, lamenting that his raft isn't meant for passengers. People's dependence on these perilous transport methods is highlighted.
At the mouth of the Congo River, the Mangrove is a rich fishing ground. Jan, 25, has been clam fishing for seven years to feed her four children. Around 100 women dive without equipment for up to six hours daily, a task made harder by rising water levels. Over-farming of clams threatens their disappearance, but villagers often lack the means to diversify their catch. The country's fragile economy, reliant on mining, rarely benefits locals, with three-quarters living in extreme poverty.
Truck driver Baju races against time to catch the last ferry, knowing that missing it means sleeping on the riverbank. His dilapidated truck struggles on damaged roads, necessitating frequent interventions from passengers and crew. Despite setbacks like punctures, they miraculously catch the ferry, which is often late. The journey on the old ferry takes 25 minutes.
Baju embarks on a 'ten-hour' journey with optimism, having invested in a system he hopes will ease his driving. Around 20 passengers are crammed onto his wagon, accepting limited comfort as it's cheaper than minibuses. Baju attributes the poor road conditions to corruption. Passengers frequently disembark to help clear obstacles, making the journey a marathon.
After the storm, the raft is damaged, with some logs submerged. Sailors work to recover the wood. Vandu and the captain must navigate dangerous waters with invisible sandbanks. The old motor struggles against the strong current, causing the 100-meter raft to get stuck against an island. A tricky maneuver is required to free it, prioritizing passenger safety. A miraculous fish catch provides a moment of joy.
During the 30-day river journey, provisions are readily available from villagers who sell food and other goods along the riverbanks. These 'riverside grocers' are vital for passengers like Gloria. However, new dangers loom as several sandbanks appear on the horizon, forcing Vandu and the captain to zigzag, with failure leading to a nightmare scenario.
The raft gets stuck on a sandbank, and Vandu gets into the water to help. Passengers cheer on the crew. After a five-hour struggle, the raft is finally freed. Men constantly test the river's depth to stay on course. Despite losing time, they hope to reach Kinshasa's outskirts the next day, but nature still has more surprises.
Baju's truck journey becomes a prolonged struggle. Jean, the eldest passenger, is exhausted, as they've barely slept. The journey is expensive for travelers, with €15 being a fortune compared to the average monthly salary of €38. Passengers are constantly forced to walk due to obstacles. The assistants work tirelessly, finding solace in having a job despite the grueling conditions.
As Kinshasa draws near, the weather turns, making the final hours difficult for Vandu and the captain. Despite a final calamity, they are almost there. The sight of the capital brings relief after almost a month. Gloria hopes to sell her cassava flour and pay debts. While the river journey ends, Baju's truck journey continues for another 48 hours for the last 30 kilometers. The Congolese people's lives are a constant battle, equaled only by their courage.