Summary
Highlights
The Brahmaputra River, offspring of the god Brahma, is a powerful and capricious giant, holding life and death over millions. Its floods are both destructive and essential for fertilizing the soil. The river originates in the Himalayas, making navigation impossible in its upper reaches. Roads parallel to the river are often perilous, with constant threats of landslides and rockfalls.
Rajkumar, an Indian taxi driver, navigates treacherous mountain roads, facing rockfalls and narrow passages. Truckers like Arjun, Deepak, and Shanu brave these 350 kilometers to deliver goods, often praying for safe passage and relying on each other for assistance. They transport vital construction materials, with dangerous loads like asphalt barrels adding to the risk of tipping over on unstable roads and old bridges.
In Bangladesh, the Brahmaputra is often the only means of transport. Ferries are nerve-wracking, with dangers of capsizing. Manik, a cattle transporter, ferries 30 cows, navigating treacherous sandbanks and whirlpools while ensuring his precious cargo doesn't jump overboard and drown. The journey to market is critical for the families who rely on livestock sales.
Gurga, a breeder who saved for 25 years to buy cows, dreams of selling them at the Aricha market to celebrate Eid. However, the market is tough, with restless animals and buyers driving down prices. Many farmers like Gurga face significant losses, as seen with one man whose injured cow sells for a fraction of its worth, highlighting the precarious economic existence of these farmers.
Arjun, Deepak, and Shanu continue their journey for a second day, facing sections prone to landslides. They recount stories of being stranded for a month and having to forage for food. The roads are often newly reopened after collapses, demanding extreme caution from drivers, especially when crossing fragile sections where a slight miscalculation could lead to disaster.
In the Brahmaputra Valley, some villages are extremely isolated, relying on dangerous suspended footbridges for connection to civilization. The Addis tribe, almost self-sufficient, ventures out to barter for necessities like sugar and salt. They cultivate cardamom, a highly sought-after spice, despite facing challenges like leeches and difficult terrain, as it is far more profitable than other crops.
The Addis tribe's paradise is threatened by a planned dam, which would flood their rice crops and village. Despite their opposition, India's need for electricity to sustain its growing population means such projects are moving forward, with 150 dams planned in the region, promising to irrevocably alter these landscapes.
After 16 hours of driving, the truckers camp, enjoying a meal together, reflecting on their camaraderie despite the arduous journey. The next morning, they still have almost 80 kilometers to go, facing steep, unrepaired inclines. Arjun's truck struggles with a particularly challenging slope, highlighting the poor infrastructure and the constant struggle.
Bangladesh exhibits stark contrasts: growth in technology alongside obsolete industrial methods and persistent poverty. The Dolai River is exploited by 'pebble fishers' who extract stones for the construction industry, facing harsh conditions for meager pay. This practice, especially after monsoons, slowly erodes the riverbanks, sacrificing natural resources for economic growth.
Dhaka, Bangladesh's booming capital, faces extreme pollution in its rivers. The Kuranigan shipyards are a major polluter and employer, where men replace machines due to lower cost. Workers dismantle, repair, and refurbish ships under crude and dangerous conditions, with little to no safety equipment, leading to hearing loss and injuries for minimal wages.
Foremen like Alam push workers to work quickly despite the inherent dangers, often dismissing safety concerns due to the high cost of dry dock rental. The absence of safety regulations allows for rapid, albeit hazardous, work, but comes at a severe human cost with countless injuries and deaths. Ruben, a worker, earns just 5 euros a day, dreaming of a better future for his family.
After three days, Arjun, Deepak, and Shanu finally reach Tuting, their mission complete. Their journey underscores the bravery required for travel and delivery in the Brahmaputra Valley. In Bangladesh, chaotic ferry travel also exemplifies this bravery, with frequent collisions due to captains racing to dock first. India's rapid development means that paved roads and efficient infrastructure will eventually replace these dangerous routes. However, this development, particularly through dam construction on the Brahmaputra, poses a significant threat to Bangladesh, which may face a drying river due to upstream water diversions.