Summary
Highlights
Erwan marvels at the organized and immaculate dried fish market. He tries raw 'Ginamos' (shrimp paste), noting its powerful yet balanced flavor. They also encounter 'Sisi' (small oysters) and 'Tocino' (caramelized Salmonete), highlighting the diverse local ingredients.
Erwan highlights Iloilo as the Philippines' first UNESCO City of Gastronomy, a title awarded for its use of indigenous ingredients, traditional cooking methods, sustainable practices, and promotion of local cuisine. He emphasizes the unique and understated complexity of Ilonggo food, influenced by Spanish and Chinese cultures, yet allowing ingredients to shine.
Chef Tibong, an advocate of Ilonggo cuisine and author of 'Flavors of Iloilo,' guides Erwan through a local market. They explore various produce like 'Bukaka' fruit, the spicy 'Batwan' used for souring, and the prevalence of native chicken as a primary protein.
At Nora's Eatery, established in 1969, Erwan and Chef Tibong sample various dishes. They discuss the simplicity and purity of Ilonggo cooking, tasting 'Sinabawan' (fish soup with Batwan and tomatoes), 'Pinamalhan' (fermented sun-dried fish), 'Paklay' (coconut pith dish), and 'Inadobadong' native chicken. The focus remains on natural flavors and minimal seasoning, particularly the use of salt for grilled items.
Chef Tibong introduces Erwan to Cyril's, a long-standing eatery known for hearty meals. They try 'Linaga' (beef stew with tender meat and a clean broth), 'Biga-Biga' (pork rectum, surprisingly palatable), 'Arroz Valenciana' (a nod to Spanish influence), and 'Lechon Paksiw'. The consistent flavors over generations are a testament to the eatery's legacy.
Beige Eatery, founded by a former OFW, is praised for its consistent, fresh, and heritage Ilonggo dishes. The owner, Bruce Buenafe, emphasizes the importance of a chef-owner's direct involvement in sourcing and cooking to maintain quality. They taste 'Linutik' (squash with shrimp) and local scallops, noting Chinese influence, and 'Chicken Biga-Biga' (unborn egg and intestine adobo).
A visit to Breakthrough, a renowned seafood restaurant, showcases more of Iloilo's bountiful marine life. Erwan tastes 'Imbaw' (giant clam soup), fresh 'Balayan' (shrimp paste) with Aligue rice, raw lobster sashimi, steamed 'Diwal' (razor clams), and 'Managat' (a trendy fish), noting the balance of flavors and the city's close proximity to fresh seafood sources.
Erwan summarizes Ilonggo cuisine as having a 'light touch' and an 'affectionate touch,' respecting ingredients and ensuring balance. He encourages exploring off-the-beaten-path dishes like vegetable salads, innards, and offal to get a true picture of local appreciation.
Erwan and Martin continue their food trip, starting with Coning's Talabahan for fresh steamed oysters and grilled Lison fish. They then experience Salam-Ukan, a gem known for its spicy and comforting carabao meat stew, 'Pata Linaga,' which includes beef tendon, heart, brain, and tripe. The unique story of its accidental creation with citrus soda and its 'choking' deliciousness is shared.
They take a coffee break at Iloilo Coffee House and Neighbor Cafe. Following this, they visit Roberto's Siopao, an Iloilo icon since 1978, famous for its 'Queen Siopao' filled with Chinese sausage, chicken pork adobo, bacon, and eggs. Erwan praises it as one of the best siopaos he's ever had.
The duo explores Buhoy Bakery, a historic 'hole in the wall' establishment since the 1960s. They try various freshly baked Filipino breads like 'Panso' and are impressed by their soft, moist textures and traditional flavors. The bakery, once a simple window, now welcomes dine-in customers.
Valeria Street transforms into a barbecue wonderland at night. Erwan and Martin sample various grilled items, including chicken, liempo (pork belly), pork mask (face), and pork tongue, noting the distinct sourness from the marinade. They appreciate the bustling local atmosphere.
Martin embarks on a 'Batchoy crawl' to five different establishments. He delves into the history of Pancit Molo (Lapaz Batchoy), crediting various individuals and cultural influences for its origin. The dish, a comforting soup with flavorful Molo balls and no actual noodles but thin wanton wrappers, is a staple of Iloilo's culinary heritage.
At Deco's, a Batchoy pioneer, Martin learns about the emphasis on a clear, balanced broth with a perfect blend of sweetness and saltiness. He appreciates the clean taste and tender entrails, noting the long-standing recipe remains unchanged since 1920.
Netong's, a related establishment to Deco's, offers a slightly different version with raw eggs, resulting in a richer, thicker, and murkier broth with a stronger garlic flavor. Martin notes the comfortable air-conditioned setting due to market renovations.
Martin continues to Ted's Oldtimer, finding the Batchoy a bit sweet and noting the cooked noodles' good bite. Afterward, he visits Popoy's, a Batchoy Festival winner, appreciating its balanced sweet and salty broth and the use of 'Ginamos' (drier shrimp paste) for flavor.
The final Batchoy stop is Alicia's, which Martin praises for its less sweet flavor, soft yet thoroughly cooked offals, and the unique addition of chili sauce. Reflecting on the crawl, he names Deco's and Alicia's as his top two, emphasizing that the goal is to show the 'best Batchoys,' not a single 'best Batchoy,' encouraging exploration.
Erwan visits Miagao to explore the rare bamboo salt known as Budbud, speaking with Lorlie Noblezada, the last woman salt farmer practicing this ancient tradition. He learns about the salt's 195-year history, the laborious process involving seawater filtration through sand and bamboo beds, and the challenges faced by climate change and development. Lorlie's passion for preserving this dying industry and its cultural significance is highlighted.
Rawit's, a 35-year-old market stall, serves meticulously prepared roasted native chicken ('Lechon Manok Darag'). Stuffed with lemongrass and marinated in vinegar and calamansi, it's described as one of the country's best chicken dishes, emphasizing the intense flavor of the native chicken.