Summary
Highlights
In Central Africa, the aftermath of civil wars has crippled public transport. With minibuses on strike and many vehicles destroyed, only bush taxis, often old and patched-up, remain. These heavily overcrowded vehicles, like the 'baya baya' (meaning 'it works well well well'), carry dozens of passengers in dangerous conditions, a testament to the lack of alternatives.
Since 2013, civil wars have destabilized the country, leading to the destruction and theft of most public transport vehicles. Without maintenance, roads have become impassable, isolating entire cities. Doctors and midwives refuse to work in these remote areas, forcing the sick to rely on motorbikes as makeshift ambulances.
Nola, a landlocked city, relies on cattle trucks for transport. Travelers, including a man with a pangolin for fun, battle for tickets and space. The chaotic boarding process, where even a pangolin is a passenger, highlights the desperation for travel, and passengers have to share space with animals and goods.
Karl, a bush taxi driver, navigates 420 kilometers of rutted track to Bangui in two days, a feat attributed to his driving skills and religious protection from jealousy and evil spells that could cause accidents. Passengers are crammed and vulnerable, and deaths are not uncommon. Despite the dangers, people endure the journey due to necessity, often transporting sick children.
Guillaume, the captain, is overwhelmed by the sheer number of passengers attempting to board, estimating around 100 people including children. Passengers perched on top of the truck face additional risks, enduring the journey with songs to distract from discomfort and obstacles.
Bangui's strategic location on the Oubangui River allows trade with the Democratic Republic of Congo. River transport is carried out by 'whalers' – poorly maintained boats. Captain Dieudonné's "Promised Land 3" is a replacement for two previous boats that sank, one claiming 50 lives. Passengers often wait for a week to depart, and the boats constantly take on water, requiring manual bailing throughout the journey.
Maneuvering whaleboats is complex due to their size and the rear-mounted pilot's limited visibility. Lookout Leon guides Captain Dieudonné through difficult waters by hand signals. The whalers serve remote villages, and traders rely on them for supplies. Fabienne, a cook, recounts surviving a capsized whaler where many drowned. During a stormy night, despite Leon's efforts, the whaler collides with and sinks a smaller boat, though its passengers are safely rescued.
Carl the bush taxi driver, despite the dangers, drives at night to catch up on lost time. Passengers must disembark to lighten the truck over deep ruts. A tense encounter with cars of the presidential guard, who fire a Kalashnikov burst into the air to force passage, leaves everyone shaken and emphasizes the lawless environment. The incident forces an overnight stop in a village.
The relief of reaching a village is short-lived as passengers find makeshift sleeping spots under the stars. The next morning, the struggle resumes for seats. On the river, the sunken boat from the night before is refloated after bailing, symbolizing the country's desperate efforts to recover from civil war and widespread poverty.
Many Central Africans earn a living through intense physical labor, such as sand fishing. Fishermen dive up to 10 meters when the Oubangui River floods, making over 70 dives a day. This dangerous work causes severe health problems and many fatalities. Symphorien, a former security guard, turned to sand fishing after the economy was ruined by conflict, earning a meager but vital income. Sand from these efforts is crucial for rebuilding destroyed buildings.
The journey continues to be arduous, with passengers constantly shaken by the poor roads. Carl is forced to make passengers disembark again to prevent the truck from tipping over in deep ruts. Passengers, some of whom are carrying sick children for medical treatment in Bangui, express their frustration and exhaustion but also acknowledge the driver's limitations.
Central Africa struggles to rebuild due to ongoing clashes between warlords controlling the country's rich resources like oil, gold, timber, and diamonds. The lack of infrastructure has left cities like Ngoto isolated, with goods delivered only by motorbike. The priest explains how the war caused the departure of Muslim traders, leading to economic decline and increased poverty. The inhabitants rely heavily on forest resources for food.
During the rainy season, the people of Ngoto hunt makongos (caterpillars) for food. A younger boy struggles to collect enough, so his older brother Abraham teaches him an ancestral technique using a long pole to dislodge caterpillars from tall trees. This ensures they have food, which is rich in vitamins, and can also be dried and sold.
Access to healthcare is extremely limited in Ngoto. Benjamin, a nurse running the health center, is overwhelmed by the lack of medical staff and resources. He faces critical cases like a child with severe anemia and a man with large foot swelling, situations he cannot treat. Motorbikes serve as ambulances to transport critically ill patients the 60 kilometers to Boda hospital, a journey that is often fatal for the most vulnerable.
Bikers like the one transporting patients face immense challenges on the damaged roads. They stop frequently for passengers who can't hold on and brave difficult conditions, even transporting corpses back from the hospital. The arduous journey highlights the suffering and danger routinely faced by Central African travelers across all modes of transport.
The whaleboat continues its journey, constantly battling incoming water with continuous bailing. Captain Dieudonné and his crew navigate treacherous rapids and strong currents, relying on their lookout for guidance. After two days, they finally reach Possel, a town lacking electricity, where ice brought for preserving fish quickly melts. The journey highlights the resilience of travelers and transport workers in the face of immense challenges.
The motorcycle ambulance convoy, fueled drop by drop, runs out of petrol 10 kilometers from Boda hospital but is helped by another driver. The sick eventually receive medical attention, thanks to the bikers' efforts. The bush taxi, after two days and 220 kilometers of hellish track, makes a final stop for repairs before reaching the capital the following evening. Despite immense struggles, Carl and others remain undeterred, embodying the enduring spirit of Central Africans in their daily lives.