Summary
Highlights
For at-home semi-permanent application without an e-file, start with a sanitized orange stick to gently push back and lift the cuticle, removing dead skin. Avoid excessive force to prevent trauma. Use the pointed end to scrape off residual non-living tissue. If dry, stubborn skin remains, carefully use nippers to remove only the non-living tissue, being mindful of the 'sinux' area (where the cuticle meets the lateral folds), which is highly sensitive. Dust generated during filing should be removed using a brush from cuticle to tip. Sanitize again with alcohol-free wipes to ensure no dust or oil remains, leaving the nail plate matte for optimal adhesion. Ensure no contact with fingers, hair, or clothing to prevent re-greasing.
This section demonstrates a combined Russian manicure using an e-file. It's crucial to hold the e-file bit correctly to avoid damaging the nail matrix. The e-file should have at least 30,000 RPM. Start by pushing the cuticle and lateral folds with the bit, keeping it angled to avoid touching the natural nail plate. Work in sections (half the nail at a time), switching the e-file's direction for the other side. Regularly remove dust with a brush to properly assess the progress. For stubborn tissue in the 'sinux' area, use a finer, softer grit bit (e.g., yellow band). This method aims to create a 'pocket' for polish application. The video highlights using a spherical bit to cut and lift excess skin, cautioning against overuse to prevent heat buildup and injury. The speaker prefers nippers for cutting and a silicone bit for polishing for safety, especially for beginners.
The American manicure is introduced as a quicker, less invasive alternative. After initial cleaning, use a cone or bullet-shaped bit to quickly lift and detach the cuticle. This method is preferred for its efficiency, as it cleans the entire area without needing to change the e-file's direction. Use nippers to carefully trim away the lifted, non-living tissue. The goal is to remove only the white, dry skin, avoiding cutting into pink, living skin. A fine cuticle pusher helps assess and further lift skin. After trimming, polish the skin with a silicone bit, making sure not to apply too much pressure or stay in one spot for too long to avoid heat. This method also allows for easy nail plate preparation with a barrel-shaped bit at low RPMs, quickly creating a matte surface for product adhesion. Emphasize light, quick passes; over-filing can damage the nail plate.
After cleaning with alcohol, apply a primer. The speaker uses an acid primer due to hypotyroidism, noting that primers (acid or non-acid) and bonders all improve adhesion by dehydrating the nail. Ensure the primer absorbs before proceeding. Apply a thin layer of base coat, starting near the lunula, close to the cuticle (without touching skin), then extending to the tip and sides. Immediately clean any spills on the skin with an orange stick or a gloved finger to prevent contact dermatitis. Perform a 'pre-curing' under the lamp for 30 seconds (from outside the lamp), then 30 seconds inside to prevent heat spikes. Always keep polish bottles closed and away from the lamp's light to prevent premature curing.
To prepare the color polish, gently roll the bottle to mix pigments, avoiding vigorous shaking. Apply a thin, even second layer of polish, using a liner brush for precise application near the cuticle if needed. This ensures full opacity and a neat finish. Always cure for the recommended time (typically 60 seconds) as indicated on the product's label, regardless of lamp wattage. Under-curing can lead to product detachment and potential dermatitis due to uncured product on the skin. After curing, apply the top coat, again in a thin layer, without touching the skin or capping the free edge, as this can lead to chipping.
Once the top coat is cured, wait about a minute before touching the nail to preserve its shine. Apply cuticle oil (almond, rose, etc.) around the cuticles and lateral folds, massaging it gently into the skin to rehydrate the area after the rigorous preparation. Avoid applying oil directly on the nail plate if it's freshly polished, as it can dull the top coat. For a crisp finish, a final gentle filing of the free edge and thorough brushing underneath the nail can be done after curing the top coat, especially if there were imperfections, but this should be done before applying cuticle oil to avoid dust accumulation. Always clean any dust after this step. The video concludes by showcasing the finished semi-permanent manicure and encourages viewers to ask questions in the comments.
Begin by assessing the nail type (natural or client's) and identifying dead skin around the cuticle and lateral folds. This dead skin must be removed to ensure proper product adhesion. Sanitize hands with 70% alcohol or commercial sanitizers, using lint-free wipes instead of cotton. Tools for preparation include cuticle pushers (avoiding wide ones) or orange sticks. Cuticle nippers are used for excess tissue, available in various sizes; the speaker recommends specific brands (Rosalind, Cherimoya) and advises against less precise nippers. Other tools mentioned include triangular tools for removal (not used in this process), 240/320 grit files (or buffers for softer nails), and nitrile gloves for hygiene. Cuticle remover can soften tissue but should be used sparingly due to its oily nature. Nail prep products like 'ader' or 'pH balancing' help dehydrate the nail. The video also touches on primers (with or without acid) and bonders for adhesion, explaining their different actions on the nail.
For semi-permanent polish, a base coat (rigid or flexible) and a top coat (final shine/sealant) are necessary, along with UV LED semi-permanent polishes that cure under a lamp (UV LED lamps are recommended over fluorescent types). Electric file bits (fresas) are discussed, highlighting the importance of investing in quality bits over those typically included with nail drills. Different types of bits include carbide, diamond, and silicone, with various shapes and grits indicated by color bands (blue for medium, red for soft, green for coarse, yellow for extra soft). The speaker recommends blue and red bits for general use. Specific bit shapes like 'Olive', 'Flame', and 'Spherical' are mentioned, noting that American manicure techniques are less invasive and often preferred over Russian manicures.